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Home LATEST NEWS Loewe bowls at Paris Fashion Week; Tribute to Miyake

Loewe bowls at Paris Fashion Week; Tribute to Miyake

By THOMAS ADAMSON, AP Fashion Journalist

PARIS (AP) — Loewe’s ever-creative director Jonathan Anderson became the toast of Paris Fashion Week on Friday with his subtly provocative, concept-driven triumphant show that wowed critics and VIP guests, including Karlie Kloss and Alexa Chung. .

Meanwhile, US Vogue’s Anna Wintour announced that next year’s Met Gala in New York will be a tribute to the late Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld.

Here are some highlights of the spring-summer 2023 collections:

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Loewe, the historic fashion brand whose “w” is pronounced “v”, is growing stronger under the artistic direction of Northern Irish designer Johnathan Anderson.

Friday’s concept-driven collection, the highlight of the season so far, was a case in point. As old-school collections used to be, Anderson takes a main theme and builds on it until he creatively generates others within the show like a symphony, all tied together with invisible threads. A giant bright red tropical flower, identified as an anthurium, was the centerpiece of this minimalist runway, producing thoughtful variations on the floral theme.

Sometimes it was literal, like the giant white anthurium that served as the front piece on an A-line minidress. Other times it was conceptual: the minimalist form of a black bustier dress that opened the show evoked the purity of the single wax petal, and her silhouette itself looked like an inverted flower, like a 1940s version of Dior.

The distortions were everywhere. An ash-colored bustier dress sported an inner peplum to create a surreal drape shape on the skirt. The 1940s was also evident in babydoll dresses whose stripes of myriad colors confused the eye.

The shoes became ruffles of white cloth like petals brushing the floor, or a mop? – while the stilettos were intentionally too big and uncomfortable.

This collection shows that Anderson is a rare designer who manages to blend classic fashion with puzzling ideas without sacrificing visual beauty.

Also, if one of the guests in the front row is photographed simply knitting, surely this must be the height of fashion?


US Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour convened a group of Paris Fashion Week think tanks on Friday to announce that the theme for next year’s annual Met Gala will be the work of the late Karl Lagerfeld.

On the first Monday in May, the world-famous fundraiser, also billed as the fashion Oscars, will celebrate the work of the German-born couturier, who worked at Chanel, Fendi and Chloe and died in 2019, aged 85. .

As always, the theme of the Met Gala is borrowed from the exhibit taking place at the museum. Next year’s will be titled “Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty” and will see some 150 of his creations gathered together to see his “stylistic language.” Lagerfeld’s original sketches will also be on display.

The tech-fabric-loving Japanese house of Issey Miyake marked the end of an era on Friday, unveiling its first collection since the death of the house’s founder. Fashion icon Issey Miyake died last month in Tokyo at the age of 84.

A heartfelt tribute to him was included in the program notes by current designer Satoshi Kondo and the design team. He said, “We see design as a curiosity-driven process, built on holistic exploration, bringing joy, wonder and hope to life, and of course with a touch of playfulness.”

The spring show was appropriately contemplative.

Against the set of a massive shimmering obelisk, soft, draped curves defined the soft aesthetic. The models walked down a misty, white and blue backlit runway, appearing as if through clouds.

A baggy white shirt had extra layers of fabric on the shoulder that fluttered like wings, while a neon yellow trench coat with voluminous arms dazzled like the first ray of sunlight.

The best styles in the collection, otherwise for sure, were the classic Miyake styles. A torch-red dress was made of horizontal veins of fabric that bounced in style as the model walked the runway. Her asymmetrical skirt flowed down one leg like moving lava.


Gladiator sandals with rhinestones, rope hem details and tunic-style mini dresses.

Giambattista Valli’s spring collection was a nod to ancient Rome, reminding fashion insiders that despite showing in Paris and with a very Parisian aesthetic, Valli actually hails from Rome (though not of the Ancient variety). , since he was born there in 1966).

Spring saw the talented couturier’s usual sexy ’60s fare: youthful, bare inches of flesh. But there were creative flourishes between these styles that showed how he keeps more than one eye on trends.

Friday saw designs that use raffia and perforations that resemble rattan to create styles that have also been seen in other collections this season.

The best looks were the ones that tried the least: a long black skirt with all the perforations had a kind of sporty, ethnic vibe with the model’s flesh visible, sensually, through the holes.

Workaholic Christine Phung is as busy as it gets, and as creative director of Leonard Paris, in addition to her namesake line, she’s slowly making a name for herself in Paris fashion circles.

Architectural shapes and prints were brought to life in bright colors for their spring offering, with a relaxed ’70s vibe expressed through detailing at the waist and bell sleeves.

Meanwhile, soft psychedelics lent flair to a retro bohemian dress with a flared fabric at the bust that looked very Farrah Fawcet.

Copyright 2022 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.


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